Tatler Thailand has published its list of Thailand’s Top Upcountry Restaurants of 2020 on 13th August; albeit the list may not reflect changes due to the COVID-19 situation which has had a big effect on the restaurant industry.
Of the 22 restaurants named in this category, five are in Hua Hin. Here are the Tatler reviews of these fine dining establishments all of which were rated 90/100!
ANDREAS (now Trattoria by Andreas)
The seasonally changing menu ensures head chef Andreas Bonifacio is constantly creating new and exciting options for a truly unique experience with every visit. Sip on a glass of wine from their extensive wine list whilst enjoying their ultra-tender slow-cooked veal cheek served with semolina gnocchi, Roman style, or the fettuccine topped by a rich, creamy burrata.
WHY GO?
A well-established eatery that consistently offers great cuisine at good value. The chef-owner and his team add innovative touches to Italian classics on a menu that is refreshed frequently to take advantage of seasonal produce.
WHAT TO ORDER?
Begin with slow-cooked soft and crispy egg, which is cooked for 45 minutes and then pan-fried for a crispy finish and served with a tangy parmesan fondue given even more depth with shavings of black truffle.
Alternatively try grilled tomino cheese, a classic from Piedmonte made with fried mushrooms and parma ham, with the creaminess offset by wild rocket.
Continue with a hearty comfort dish of the rich risotto enhanced with barolo wine and foie gras. Meat lovers will enjoy the ultra-tender slowcooked veal cheek served with semolina gnocchi in the Roman style.
Another enticing option is fettucine and creamy burrata, which neutralises the spiciness of the accompanying Italian sausage. There is an ample choice of desserts but recommended is chocolate and hazelnut mousse on a cornflake base with fresh cream—a wonderfully sinful finish to a great meal.
Drinks An extensive wine list is dominated by Italian labels but all major producing regions are well represented. A selection of wines is available by the glass.
RATING
Food: 37/40
Drink: 18/20
Setting: 17/20
Service: 18/20
Total: 90/100
NOTE: Now operating as Trattoria by Andreas in Khao Takiab
HAGI
Upon entering Hagu you are suddenly met by a calm Japanese oasis in contrast to the bustling city of Hua Hin. Start the evening with the akami ponzu, a raw tuna dish accompanied by ponzu sauce and Japanese chilli for an unexpected kick before the main event: the signature snowfish saikyo, marinated in sake for three days and served with miso and Japanese herbs.
WHY GO?
An oasis in the bustling city centre that offers a relaxing and contemporary take on Japanese classics.
WHAT TO ORDER? Begin your meal with the tantalising akami ponzu, thin slices of raw tuna with fried white radish and seaweed accompanied by a ponzu sauce and Japanese chilli to give it extra zing.
Another tastefully decorated starter is agedashi tofu, or soft tofu coated with rice flour and then deep-fried. Silky on the inside with a crunchy exterior, it comes with a warm savoury broth flavoured with dried fish, seaweed and horseradish. For mains the signature snowfish saikyo is a must. Marinated in sake for three days and served with miso and Japanese herbs, it too contrasts crisp and soft textures.
Also an excellent choice is gyuniku nikomi, a signature dish comprising slow-cooked beef that is so tender you can cut it with a spoon. Served on a bed of mashed potatoes, it is particularly good with a misobased barbecue sauce packed with so many spices it makes the palate sing with pleasure.
When it comes to dessert, look no further than green matcha ice cream for a sweet but simple way to end a perfect meal.
Drinks
An impressive wine list with varietals from around the world at various price points. The selection of hot and cold sake is also very good. A range of innovative cocktails is available too.
RATING
Food: 35/40
Drink: 19/20
Setting: 18/20
Service: 18/20
Total: 90/100
Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas, 1 Damnoen Kasem Road Hua Hin, Prachuab Kirikhan 771100-3251-2021http://centarahotelsresorts/centaragrand
LA GRAPPA
Supported by a wonderfully loyal clientele, La Grappa has become somewhat of an institution amongst the keen fine diners in Hua Hin. Serving melt-in-your-mouth Italian classics such as the slow-cooked veal tonato served with tuna sauce and topped with tender seared tuna and sesame seeds, La Grappa’s desserts are worth saving room for. Their refreshing Avarian mango mousse topped with amaretto crumbs and a passionfruit sauce will be the perfect ending to your meal.
WHY GO?
Helmed by chef-patron Luigi Sica, La Grappa has become something of a Hua Hin institution loved by a loyal clientele for the chef’s authentic Italian cuisine and a superb wine list.
WHAT TO ORDER?
Begin with the slow-cooked veal tonato served with tuna sauce and topped with tender seared tuna and sesame seeds. It has a wonderful salty tang and the sesame seeds provide crunch.
Also good is the beautifully presented citrus-marinated salmon tartare with passionfruit sauce and wasabi cream. For mains, the signature dish of 270-day grain-fed Australian black angus beef cooked rossini style is excellent. It comes with mashed sweet potato and broccoli florets, foie gras and a rich madeira wine truffle sauce.
Another equally appealing signature dish is the homemade veal ravioli in a parmesan fondue with white truffle foam and shaved black truffle. The richness of the dish is best appreciated with a glass of chilled prosecco. End the meal with bavarian mango mousse topped with amaretto crumbs and a refreshing passionfruit sauce. Also good is one of the homemade ice creams enjoyed with a shot of strong expresso.
Drinks
A well-balanced and comprehensive wine list caters to all tastes and budgets. Not surprisingly, Italian wines are the main focus here, although other regions are also available.
RATING
Food: 37/40
Drink: 18/20
Setting: 17/20
Service: 18/20
Total: 90/100
20/5 Poolsuk Road, Hua Hin, Prachuab Kirikhan 771100-3251-6510http://lagrappa-ristorante.com
PIROM
Led by chef Jasvir San-Ghera, also known as Mama Duu, Pirom is a modern Thai restaurant serving authentic Thai dishes as well as contemporary favourites. Order the larb pla tod bung kam made with Mama Duu’s special recipe, comprising minced deep-fried sea bass and served with roasted rice, spring onion and coriander—all plated on their beautiful hand-painted ceramic tableware.
WHY GO?
Chef Jasvir San-Ghera, better known as Mama Duu, is passionate about maintaining the traditional cooking techniques and tastes of classic Thai cuisine.
WHAT TO ORDER?
Start with miang kham, a zesty appetiser in which pieces of dried shrimp, shallot, ginger, lime, peanut and chilli are wrapped in lotus leaf parcels and eaten with a sweet and spicy shrimp-based paste. It awakens the palate perfectly before biting into the aromatic mar hoh consisting of sweet caramelised minced chicken and peanuts on pineapple pieces.
For mains try the sensational larb pla tod bung kam made with Mama Duu’s special recipe. It comprises minced sea bass, which is deepfried and served with roasted rice, spring onion and coriander. The dish has a nice balance between spicy sweet and savoury. Next order the signature khao soi hang nua, a famous northern noodle dish consisting of slow-cooked beef in a curry sauce served with egg noodles (or rice if preferred) and lime, red shallot, sambal and pickled mustard greens as condiments. It is the classic Thai comfort dish.
To finish try the beautifully presented mango and sticky rice, which is elevated with silky coconut milk and ice cream and salted mung beans.
Drinks
A good variety of affordable wines with a few prestige labels. Do consider one of its funky, locally inspired fusion cocktails.
RATING
Food: 36/40
Drink: 18/20
Setting: 18/20
Service: 18/20
Total: 90/100
InterContinental Hua Hin Resort, 33/33 Phetkasem Road, Hua Hin, Prachuab Kirikhan 771100-3261-6999http://intercontinental.com/huahin
